Two of my favorite watches EVER are the Rolex Datejust and the Rolex Day-Date. I’m dead serious. There is something about these two; the perfect fit on the wrist of their subtle 36mm cases, their cultural significance, their bulletproof quality and iconic designs: these are iconic watches. Plus, these were made in an unimaginable number of configurations, making the search for the one that speaks to you -or has the best investment potential- a fun challenge.

In-depth articles on these I’ll save for a later date. But as our archive is rapidly growing, for now I’ll make do with a moderately revised version of a history of the first four generations of Rolex Day-Date, that was previously hosted on RLXDD.

Make sure to check out the archive we’ve built up on the Rolex Day-Date so far right here.

Most of the info below is rather to the point and might puzzle some of you. Don’t worry though. Main points for budding collectors;

• First two generations (6511, 6611 and variations): if the price is right, buy if case condition is good / acceptable and if dial, hands and discs are original. Dial exchanged to later gen – no-go.
• Third generation (1800): for early versions, make sure they sport the right dial (markers!) and matching hands. For later ones, I suggest to focus on unusual colors. Materials other than yellow gold are an instant plus. As production numbers on these were considerably higher, condition becomes increasingly important. While the first two generations are considerably rare, this one in general isn’t.
• Fourth generation (18000): re-read the above. And focus on rare materials – stone, wood and whatever came out of the Rolex factory, including rare diamond-set variations. Thank me later.

So, for the geek stuff;

6511

To the best of my knowledge, there have been a few distinctive versions of the 6511 since it was first introduced – notwithstanding minor differences. This very first Day-Date model is said to be somewhat flawed movement-wise, notably the day & date change causing lag in the movement making the overall performance less-than noteworthy.

Rumour has it that the very first Day-Dates made their appearance in 1955, the same year the patent was filed. Supposedly these were delivered only to the Italian market – more or less prototypes, with the ever watch-crazy Italians serving as guinea pigs. To be frank, I wouldn’t be surprised if this story turned out to be completely flawed. However, these should have a few distinctive marks;

Rolex Day-Date 6511 first generation

• Only white/silver dials
• Day-Date wording in red
• Brevet case
• Inner caseback signed 6510, crossed out, signed 6511
• Italian Day disc
• Dial markings include 50m – 165ft
• Dial markings include Superlative Chronometer by Official Test. Please note that the word Superlative can be considered somewhat of an anomaly considering the what I’m about to write further down the road.
• Dauphine hands / Alpha hands

As far as I know, the next generation 6511 is the one which still has the depth-rating on the dial;

Rolex Day-Date 6511 second generation

• Dial colours available unknown. Likely only silver/white.
• Day-Date wording in red (6:00)
• Case details unknown
• Likely inner caseback signed 6511
• Day disc in various languages – English and Italian confirmed
• Dial markings can include 50m- 165ft
• Dial markings include Officially Certified Chronometer
• Dauphine hands / Alpha hands

So the first two iterations are covered. The next one is what I would consider to be the most common, the standard, 6511. Let’s consider this one the 1956 Basel model – the official 6511.

Rolex Day-Date 6511 third generation

• Dial colours available unknown. Likely only silver/white.
• Day-Date wording in black (12:00)
• Case signed 6511
• Inner caseback signed 6511
• Day disc in various languages – English and Italian confirmed
• Dial markings no longer include depth rating
• Dial markings include Officially Certified Chronometer
• Dauphine hands / Alpha hands

6611

After only a year -or two, depending on which story you’re going with- the 6511 got replaced with the near identical Rolex Day-Date 6611 in 1957. This model was now fitted with the free sprung balance calibre 1055. Being much more accurate than the previous model, it now earned the designation ‘Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified – the first Rolex to be fitted with this text, designating ‘especially good results’ in the chronometer-tests. Besides the chronometer text, the most distinctive change is that from the Dauphine-hands to Alpha-hands. But then again – no hard and fast rules. Many transitionals exist and many parts have been exchanged in service. This is also the very first Day-Date to be available with the President bracelet and different bezels; either fluted, smooth or diamond-set.

Rolex Day-Date 6611

• Dial colours available unknown. Silver/white, black and gold confirmed.
• Day-Date wording in black
• Case signed 6611, 6612, 6613
• Inner caseback signing unknown – yet to be confirmed
• Day disc in various languages
• Dial markings no longer include depth rating – last mention of this fact
• Dial markings include Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified
• Alpha hands – so far Dauphine hands seem acceptable too though.

Note the Dauphine hands on the last example. No hard and fast rules.

The one below deserves a special mention, with the chronometer-script being in German. I will work out the story behind these in time.

6611b to be added

1800

1959 marks the release of the 1800-generation, powered by calibre 1555. The official introduction is supposed to have been on September 1st, 1960. This is where the real fun starts; an sturdy and reliable movement and, throughout the years, a crazy number of dials, bezels and bracelets.

Noteworthy updates include the 1963-64 change from radium to tritium and the 1965 switch from calibre 1555 to the higher-beat 1556. Hacking introduced in 1972.

Rolex Day-Date 1800

• Many dial colours available
• Day-Date wording matching the other text
• Case signed 1802, 1803, 1804 et cetera, designating the type of bezel fitted
• Inner caseback signing 1800 (180x)
• Day disc in many languages
• Dial markings include Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified
• Hands in different styles; early transitional ones fitted with Alpha-hands, others include the most common Baton-type, tapering Cigarette, Wide Boy et cetera.

18000

1978 marks the release of the 18000-generation, powered by calibre 3055. This is the first Day-Date to feature the quick-set date. This generation was the first to see the Tridor or BIC.

Rolex Day-Date 18000

• Many dial colours and materials available
• Day-Date wording matching the other text
• Case signed 18038, 18039, designating the type of bezel fitted and the materials used
• Inner caseback signing 18000(180xx)
• Day disc in many languages
• Dial markings include Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified
• No rose/ pink

1831

A special mention is in order for the elusive reference 1831, said to be made in no more than 8 examples as a custom order in platinum only. It uses an OysterQuartz-type of case, while using a integrated bracelet in King Midas style – strangely neither of these models was made in platinum though. Exceedingly deep pockets needed.

Pic credit;

• Stefano Mazzariol
• Yorktime
• Antiquorum
• Bonhams
• John Goldberger
• Amsterdam Vintage Watches
• Amsterdam Watch Company

Three Omega Speedmaster Professional models looking exceedingly alike: reference 3570, 3572 and 3573. To little surprise, one of the questions most often asked among budding Speedmaster aficionado’s ist: what exactly is the difference between these three?

The 3570.50.00 was introduced in 1996 and discontinued somewhere in the second half of 2014, when it was replaced by the 311.30.42.30.01.005. This Speedmaster is fitted with a closed caseback and a hesalite (plexi) front. It is powered by caliber 1861.

The 3572.50.00 was introduced 1996 and discontinued somewhere around 2002. No direct replacement was offered; the 3573 more or less served as its replacement. This Speedmaster is fitted with a sapphire caseback and a hesalite (plexi) front. It is powered by caliber 1863.

The 3573.50.00, as indicated above, was introduced in 2002 as an updated replacement for the 3572. This Speedmaster is fitted with a sapphire crystal both front and back. It is powered by caliber 1863. This reference was discontinued in favor of the 311.30.42.30.01.006 in the second half of 2014.

In short:

• 3570: plexi front, closed caseback, caliber 1861
• 3572: plexi front, sapphire caseback, caliber 1863
• 3573: sapphire front, sapphire caseback, caliber 1863

As far as the 1861 / 1863 difference goes: the 1861 can be regarded as the standard version of this movement, while the 1863 is the ‘luxury’ model upgraded for use in models fitted with a sapphire caseback. It is therefore finished to a somewhat higher degree. The baseplate features circular graining, several bridges now sport Geneva stripes and both bridges as well as levers are now adorned with polished edges. Also, the 861 (and its successor 1861) have been using a Delrin (plastic) chronograph brake since approximately 1971, a feature introduced to reduce friction on the wheels caused by a conventional steel brake. On the 863 and 1863 this piece was changed back to metal so no plastic parts would show through the caseback.

The debate often gets heated much more quickly when it comes to the right choice of crystal for the Moonwatch. Purists prefer the plexi: this conform the original specs, plus the plexi adds a certain ‘glow’ that is unmatched by the sapphire. However, the plexi (hesalite if you prefer) is rather soft and scratches quite easily. The scratches can be buffed out easily on the other hand.

Sapphire crystal is much harder and will hardly scratch. However, the curvature of the glass is noticeably different and one could say a bit of character is lost – it is much less ‘vintage’ in appearance, although only those in the know will notice. There is less distortion. And -plus or minus, you decide- it adds a bit of heft to the Speedmaster, especially in the 3573 model which is fitted with sapphire both front and back.

In todays market, a huge number of watches is fitted with sapphire crystal backs. Not all views are equal though – many of them are really not that spectacular to look at. The 1863 however is a nice sight – it is a very traditional chronograph movement that has powered Omega’s emblematic Speedmaster for decades, so it deserves a bit of attention every now and then.. 😉

In short:

• 3570.50.00 – purists model
• 3573.50.00 – modern take on the classic
• 3573.50.00 – the perfect combination?

Now, which one works best for you is of course a very personal decision.. IMHO, either of these (and their current-production counterparts) is a great choice.. But so are the limited editions.. the vintage ones.. the 9300.. Browse the selection we’ve uploaded right here.

WatchBase recommends buying at an Authorized Dealer when buying new and at a trusted and recommended party when buying used.

So I just received a press update from Omega and I’m 100% sure that this is the news you’ve all been waiting for. This is so exciting. BaselWorld 2015 PR machine kicking in.

Omega just launched a new campaign with George Clooney and his dog Einstein.  

“Einstein has been studying acting for many years now as you can imagine. I think he’s concerned that I am in his shot and he thinks that perhaps you can airbrush me out if it. That’s his hope“, says Clooney.

So.

If you’re done screaming and yelling in excitement, why not check out the details of the Speedy on his wrist in these shots?

Your horological reporter checking out – in agony.

In the last couple of days, I’ve again added a huge number of watches and movements to our database. Also, a few smaller (though great 🙂 ) changes have been made by Alwin and Dion- both functional as well as some design thingamalingies.

With the intend of keeping things interesting, both for myself as well as for you, I have been trying to find some kind of middle road between a high volume of easy uploads and unusual and indie watches. The former are mostly ETA-based brands, whose watches are quickly uploaded in bulk as they use standard (or moderately altered) movements already in our database – Hamilton, Longines and Bell & Ross come to mind.

Others, like Vacheron, Patek, Lange, and Audemars Piguet, require custom movement uploads. It is however interesting to note that the info on these is readily available and very well sorted, hugely decreasing the time needed to sort out the information needed to fill all our fields. Patek and Vacheron take the reigns here, sorting their watches if desired by movement used, with full specs and info on all. While I haven’t really taken on Vacheron yet, our Patek database is starting to be quite something – although most are from the current collection.

Speake-Marin has been fun and I think only the Triad pieces need to be added from his current line-up. It’s a pity I can’t seem to locate pics of all his movements, but I applaud his open communication regarding the use of Vaucher movements. I’ve also begun to work on Lang & Heyne.. since we’re trying to add all, why not add a few unusual ones right at the start, right? Also, check out the Daytona page for a first taste of vintage.

Alwin and Dion have been adding a new function to the Calibers pages, which shows what we’re after – clear and open information with as much cross references as possible. It is now possible to view which calibers use a certain movement as a base – get a taste of it at the ETA 2824-2 page. While obviously a lot more movements need to be added to make it truly interesting, it is already a fun feature. They’ve also cleaned up the Brands and Calibers pages – the lay-out is much more clear than it was before.

Ok, back to work 🙂

Tonight Team Watchbase will be at the Bremont Kingsman event hosted by Ace Jewelers. What better motivation could we have to post a bit on the three watches created especially for the film?

Bremont is part of a group of British brands who, under the watchful eye of MR Porter, MR PORTER, director Mr Matthew Vaughn and costume designer Ms Arianne Phillips, who have collaborated on a collection of menswear items inspired by – and worn in – the film.

A total of three watches has been created for the film, all based on thecaliber BE-54AE-powered ALT-1 Worldtimer model. All of them feature special dials with the Kingsman logo. A model with rose gold case was not previously available in the ALT-1 collection.

Check out the details on each of these with a Watchbase Search for Kingsman – or just use the links below;

• Bremont Kingsman Special Edition Rose Gold
• Bremont Kingsman Special Edition Stainless Steel
• Bremont Kingsman Special Edition DLC

The WatchBase database is growing fast, with hundreds of watches being added on a daily basis. And we have just reached a big milestone:

1,000 (one thousand!) watches listed !!

Browsing by caliber?

The unique structure that we’ve created when masterminding WatchBase makes it possible to browse by caliber and quickly get an overview of all watches that have used said movement – well, at least the ones we’ve added to our database.

One movement of which I’m pretty sure that I’ve got a near complete list of watches for is the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph caliber CH 28-520 IRM QA 24H. I think only one reference of 5960 or 5961 is missing.. Can you tell which one?

PS – should you happen to know the reference number of the sapphire-set 5961, please let me know!

We’ve been making big steps with adding watches to our database in the last few days. As the list is growing, our initial idea is slowly starting to emerge – full info on as many watches as humanly possible. And once the data is there, we can make lists, timelines and whatever else fun we can think of.

Among the close to a thousand watches that I’ve added last week are a couple that’ll show what I’m talking about – the IWC Laureus models. As you probably know, the Schaffhausen-based brand has been releasing a limited edition model for the Laureus Sport for Good foundation almost every year since 2006. All of them feature a distinct blue dial and closed caseback with a special engraving, and most of them have proved to be hugely popular. Can you name them all – and preferably in good order? If not, try a WatchBase search for ‘Laureus’ to get a quick overview.. Have fun!

Last one – what model do you think will serve as the base for the 2015 IWC Laureus? I’ve already seen it, so I won’t play.. 😉

On the home of the website we have a “Latest additions” section, showing you which watches have been recently added to our watch database. But with the current steady growth of the database, we figured it would be fun to show more of these recent additions on the homepage.

So this section has now been extended to show all new watches that were added in the past 7 days.

Check it out on the live website here.

Yay!

We just finished uploading the current collection of caliber 240-based Patek Philippes. As we’re sure all of you connoisseurs are aware, these include the World Time models, the 5140 Perpetual Calendars, the Celestial and the Nautilus with moonphase, date, power reserve and small seconds. Have fun browsing!

Caliber 240 in its most original form was introduced back in 1977 and it’s been powering a large number of Patek Philippe models ever since. From simple two-handed watches to small and grand complications – this little engine that could has seen them all.