Pre-BaselWorld 2017: Omega releases the Speedmaster Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Co-Axial 304.32.44.51.01.001 with vintage-inspired ‘Racing’ dial!
In an early BaselWorld 2017 release, Omega just introduced the latest version of its 44.25mm co-axial Speedmaster, featuring a stainless steel case, a ceramic bezel insert with LiquidMetal tachymeter scale, and a bold ‘Racing’ dial inspired by the 1969-1975 Speedmaster Mark II Racing. It is the first Speedmaster to be equipped with caliber 9900, the Master Chronometer-certified version of caliber 9300. Attached to it is a leather strap with orange rubber mid layer – the latter shining subtly visible through the racing-style perforations.
Compared to the earlier models like the 318.104.22.168.01.001, the profile is said to be slightly slimmer due to a redesign of the sapphire crystals. The size of the sub-dials is increased, enhancing readability – and perhaps even offering a more balanced look.
2017 marks the 60th anniversary of one of my favorite watches: the Omega Speedmaster – and its Railmaster & Seamaster siblings. After yesterday’s release of the wonderful #SpeedyTuesday limited edition, this now has me wondering what’s left in store for BaselWorld…
Ahead of SIHH 2017, IWC just revealed a glimpse of its new Da Vinci collection, including the IW392101 Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar.
The 2017 IWC Da Vinci collection marks a return of the round case with flexible lugs, a style first seen in the 1985 reference 3750 – which of course had the honor of serving as the debut piece for Kurt Klaus perpetual calendar module. While the 3750 was far from the first IWC to carry the Da Vinci name, to many it is THE Da Vinci. Footsteps that proved hard to fill for the 2007-2017 tonneau-shaped generation.
The 2017 IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar features a case of 43mm in -for now- either red gold (IW392101) or stainless steel (IW392103). The former is paired with a silver dial, while the latter features a slate grey dial. Both are fitted with Santoni straps. They are powered by the new caliber 89630, pairing IWC’s in-house flyback chronograph with its traditional perpetual calendar lay-out, including the signature 4-digit year indicator.
Other models include 36mm versions with either a date window or a moonphase window, based on movements we’ve come to know from the Portofino collection. I’ll upload these to our IWC database as soon as I have more information.
For now, here’s the links to the Perpetual Calendars;
During recent research I came across an interesting and unusual project Omega seems to be working on: a wristwatch with luminous indexes illuminated through the dial by a light source powered by an electrical energy source. And it’s activated by the bezel!
Geeking out is fun. And when I have exhausted all my usual resources, at times I browse through patent databases to try and find that one bit of information that can tip off what the manufacturers are working on. Many of these patents are hardly worth reporting on. They cover only mildly interesting bits like clasp designs, they are too technical or they are backdated. But earlier I came across this interesting bit of innovation that I thought is worth sharing. And while I’m not at all sure that we’ll see anything like this at BaselWorld 2017, I hope at least a few of you will enjoy getting in on this tech at this early stage, only to find out later how it will be incorporated in real world watches.
The original patent can be found by clicking HERE.
So, what are we looking at in these images? In the abstract, Omega defines it:
Wristwatch comprising a watch case (1), a bezel (4) mounted rotatably on the watch case (1) and a dial (8) fitted with at least one luminous index (12a-12e), said luminous index (12a-12e) being illuminated through the dial (8) by at least one light source (28) arranged under the dial (8) and supplied by an electrical energy source (54), an activation component (72) of the light source (28) being housed in the rotating bezel (4) and engaging with a detection component (76) housed in the watch casing (1), the activation component (72) being arranged such that, in a determined position of the rotating bezel (4), the presence of same is detected by the detection component (76), the detection component (76) then transmitting an electrical signal which is addressed to a microprocessor circuit (46) housed in the watch case (1), the microprocessor circuit (46) transmitting, in response to reception of the electrical signal sent by the detection component (76), an electrical signal which orders the switching on of the light source (28) for a determined period of time.
So basically what we’re looking at is a Omega Seamaster 300, whose ‘sandwich’ style dial is illuminated using a light source located below the top layer – in the present construction specifically the markers at 12, 3, 6 and 9. The light is activated by some kind of action involving the bezel; most likely rotating it. It is my understanding that the bezel is ‘connected’ to the electrical part through special magnets and magnetic sensors. And this is probably the most interesting part, as it opens up a whole new range of possible functions for which to use the bezel – for instance, Omega itself imagines us turning off an alarm or opening a car using a combination of NFC and this bezel tech. How 007.
It’s a brave new world!
Again, the original patent can be found by clicking HERE. If anyone being either more technical or better in French than me has additional insights / corrections, I’d love to hear it!
Earlier this month Oris introduced a new member in its successful Divers Sixty Five collection, sporting a silver dial with sunburst finish.
A couple of weeks ago I spend some time with Gijs van Hoorn of Oris the Netherlands and his private collection of vintage Oris watches. Among them was this little 1960’s divers watch with an unusual silver dial. And BOOM – like many other watches from Gijs collection, this one too served as the inspiration for a modern re-interpretation.
The latest member of Oris Divers Sixty-Five collection sports a silver dial. An unusual color for a dive watch (the Doxa Searambler comes to mind), the sunburst-finished dial sports over-sized indexes with a warm ‘vintage’ tone, like seen before on the blue and green variations.
The new Divers Sixty Five is available with a choice of straps. Click to be transported to the entries in our watch database for more information including prices.
The end of 2016 marks the surprising return of the Portugieser Rattrapante in -for now- three different iterations. This watch, reference 3712, had been absent from the collection for some 10 years.
The IWC Portugieser Chrono-Rattrapante 3712 was introduced in 1995, accompanied by the less complicated -and highly popular- 3714 in 1998, and finally discontinued after the introduction of the Italian-market limited edition IW3712-14 in 2006. But this year IWC decided to bring this cult-classic C back to life with a series of limited editions dedicated to three of its European boutiques;
– The IW3712-15, a limited edition of 100 units in red gold, was created in honor of the Milan boutique. It features a blue dial with both a tachymeter and telemeter scale.
– The IW3712-16, a limited edition of 200 units in stainless steel, was created in honor of the Paris boutique. It features a grey / black dial.
– The IW3712-17, a limited edition of 200 units in stainless steel, was created in honor of the Munich boutique. It features a blue dial.
While at the time of writing this little update the -15 and -17 were already launched, details on the -16 are still a bit sketchy. I will update ASAP.
After extensive teasing, Tudor just revealed the latest addition to its Pelagos collection: the Tudor Pelagos LHD,
The Tudor Pelagos LHD is a left-handed variation of the regular Tudor Pelagos, the titanium brother of the popular Black Bay. Once decisively modern, the Pelagos LHD now takes after its Heritage-line siblings, with beige Luminova and a subtle splash of red text.
For a watch touted as a Professional Instrument, the world of the Breitling Emergency is surprisingly colorful and diverse. I just updated our database with a number of rare and unusual variations.
The Breitling Emergency II was introduced in 2013 as a replaced of the original 1995-2012 Emergency watch. While I won’t go into too much detail in this post, it’s safe to say that it featured a few impressive (/shocking) updates in terms of technical specifications, size and price.
The professional specifications of the Emergency watch has never stopped Breitling from releasing some wild variations. Remember the white & yellow gold versions of the original Emergency? While Breitling has refrained from giving us a precious metal version of the II [thus far; and at over 140 gram without strap for the titanium version it might be for the better], they do have a few configurations that can be considered ‘out there’ – how about mother-of-pearl dials or black diamonds on your 51mm ‘Dual Frequency Locator Beacon’? Breitling has got you covered.
Just before posting this I realized I was missing the Bentayga Edition – #19 on my carefully laid out 6*3 grid… It’s not yet in our database as I have to check the reference number, but it will be added soon.